Apple iMac G5 Take Apart Procedure 1st and 2nd Generation
Here is the procedure that I used to replace the capacitors on the Apple iMac G5 MOB.
When you take it apart, start with this order:
- Lay the iMac face down on a soft, protected surface.
- Back cover removal. (Loosen the three screws on the bottom lower edge, then lift up carefully from the bottom up).
- Take close up pictures of your G5 mother board and inside the iMac for your reference in case you need to refer to something for proper installation.
- Power supply removal ( http://manuals.info.apple.com/en/imacg5_17inch_Power_Supply.pdf ).
- Verify Power Supply capacitors are not bulging or blown out.
- Hard drive removal.
- CD removal.
- Memory cards removal.
- Right fan cover removal.
- Lower left two small plug connectors undo by carefully taking needle-nose pliers and tug the plugs upwards to disconnect them.
- Fan plugs – disconnect.
- Airport option removal, being careful not to break the very delicate antenna wire clip. You might want to leave the wire attached and just move the Airport out of the way.
- Then remove the Torx mounting screws. See the special 12-in-1 screwdriver with Torx and Phillips bits.
- Carefully lift out the MOB, making sure all the mounting screws were removed. Do not force it.
- Heat up the soldering iron, with a wide tip attached, and working from the bottom and the top of the MOB, with the MOB tilted up on edge, heat up one leg of a capacitor on the backside and rock the capacitor slightly from the top. Then do the other leg, and the cap will come out of the hole.
- Remove all capacitors in the groups.
- Once the holes are clear, (pins work well), then place the high quality low ESR capacitors in the holes, making sure the positive and negative legs of the capacitors are properly situated in the holes. Do not install caps backwards. Major damage will most likely result.
- Apply Arctic Silver thermal paste heat sink compound to the small area (make sure it is cleaned with isopropyl alcohol), on the bottom of CPU. Cover it and the matching heat sink area with a thin layer (not to excess). Use a small razor blade as a scraper to remove the excess. Keep it thin, thin, and thin.
- Reassemble the motherboard, (don’t forget the white light tube that displays the “power on” light on the front cover of the iMac), hard drive, DVD/CD Super drive, cables, plugs, fan covers, memory modules, and make sure you don’t have any extra screws left over.
- Double check and triple check your work.
- Place the back cover on.
- Plug everything back in and turn it on.
Important Notes:
- Don’t forget to put new heatsink compound back on the bottom of the processor chip, which is located on the bottom of the MOB, and the solid plate heatsink assembly located on the chassis: Arctic Silver. Several heating up and cooling down cycles is required for maximum thermal heatsinking effectiveness.
- At least a 60 watt soldering iron is recommended and a good solder sucker and some plastic headed sewing pins for heating up and push removing solder from holes. Read the article: Soldering Tips for Lead-Free Solder for more detailed information.
- Use rosin core solder only. Do not use acid core or acid flux. Use lead free, or, in my opinion even standard 60/40 leaded solder will work (although there are few lead-free caveats) for soldering the new caps. Just make sure there are no cold solder joints.
- How to Tip: Use a few small pins to clear the holes when the soldering iron is used to heat up the holes to remove the old solder.
- Don’t try to bypass this advice. Highly recommend replacing all the caps in both groups. Even though one or two caps might be visibly bad, the others are more than likely weak or on their way out too.
- It’s up to you if you want to attempt the repair. It depends on how comfortable you feel about doing it yourself. The degree of difficulty on MOB caps replacement on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the easiest and 10 being the hardest; a 7.
- Double check your power supply unit. Open the PSU to check those capacitors too.
- Degree of difficulty on PSU caps replacement on a scale of 1 to 10; a 3.
The procedure above is going off of memory.
Suggestions:
- Layout your screws as you go.
- Have lots of room to lay it out.
Refer to my articles, read carefully, and suggest printing them out for reference.
iMac G5 Motherboard repairs procedure
iMac G5 power supply repairs
Feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.




November 18th, 2009 at 1:24 PM
Jim,
Your instructions are very complete, therein lies a bit of confusion. I see where on reassembly I need to put heat sink paste on the CPU and heat sink, but I don't see where you mentioned taking off the heatsink or exposing the CPU. It would help to know this as I'm about to disassemble the MB very soon and don't want to miss anything important.
November 18th, 2009 at 2:02 PM
The CPU is actually attached on the bottom of the motherboard and is not removable. Note that the heatsink and the CPU are not like a typical PC computer assembly. On the Apple iMac G5 1st and 2nd generation models, the solid plate heatsink is mounted to the chassis. So, when the MOB is unscrewed from the chassis and removed, it exposes the heatsink, with the heatsink staying attached to the chassis. The MOB with the CPU comes off as one piece. Do not try to separate the CPU from the MOB. The CPU is soldered to the motherboard.
Hope that clarifies it a bit.
When the MOB is removed, the heatsink and the CPU can be cleaned of the old heatsink thermal grease with alcohol prior to applying new heatsink thermal compound.
April 3rd, 2010 at 12:11 PM
I have the g5 17″. Apple’s instructions for the lower fan removal are for the “ambient light sensor” model only. I am having difficulties getting this thing out. There is a metal piece that lifts up, but no matter how hard I push or pull this cheap bugger won’t give. What’s the deal? Thanks, btw love this site.
April 3rd, 2010 at 2:31 PM
Hi Steve,
I think I might have mentioned this before someplace, but it is good to post this here too.
Apparently to remove the fan on the G5 non iSight models, it looks like the speaker is in the way of the bracket being able to lift up that holds the fan in place. I found the following information in this link to the Apple forum area for how to go about removing that lower fan on the non iSight G5 models.
Scroll down until you see the following posted information:
Re: How to replace lower (CPU) fan in Rev. A iMac G5
Posted: Dec 29, 2009 12:20 PM
The forum poster mentions about removing the power supply, three or four screws on the inner frame (see a following posting), two long screws on the bottom located below the logic card that screws into the front bezel, and removing one speaker. The speaker is held in place with two screws too.
Quote #1:
Quote #2:
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Jim
April 13th, 2010 at 8:44 PM
Thanks Jim for the thorough description. I thought I would need to remove the lower fan out in order to remove the motherboard, but to my surprise it came out just fine with the fan still in. But I’m sure your detailed instructions will benefit a frustrated individual somewhere.
July 12th, 2010 at 11:45 AM
Hi Jim…
I received the replacement capacitors for my 17″ iMAC G5. Thank you.
I was in the electronics business for may years and soldering was second nature to me. The new solder with a higher melting point is a problem
I took apart the MAC without any problems and setup my soldering station using a chisel tip. Using solder wick and liquid rosin I’m having an extremely difficult time. Removing the old “caps” and clearing the holes is a real project. I think the iron is hot enough and I managed to get 2 caps out in an hour, but can’t clear the holes. At this rate, replacing the caps will be a whole new career.
Any hints or clue that could make the processes easier will be greatly appriciated.
Thanks,
Arnie
July 22nd, 2010 at 2:12 PM
I strongly suggest reading my lead free soldering tips article. If you are looking for some ideas for a good quality soldering iron or soldering station for a reasonable price, feel free to write to me and I will provide the suggestions. I also suggest ordering the Chip Quik from my online eCommerce website. This will make any job much much easier when dealing with lead free soldering repairs.
August 19th, 2010 at 10:54 AM
Hi Jim,
I would like to switch my G5 mob with a 2.16GHz Core Duo mob
(compatible with snow leopard?) that doesn’t power on. The seller
doesn’t know why.
Is the G5 power supply compatible with the Core Duo? The working G5 iMac
has the following designations:
Model Name: iMac G5
Model Identifier: PowerMac8,2
Processor Name: PowerPC G5 (3.0)
Processor Speed: 2 GHz
Number Of CPUs: 1
L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 667 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 5.2.5f1
Serial Number (system): W85197HHSDY
Hardware UUID: 00000000-0000-1000-8000-0011243BE39C
Thanks!
August 25th, 2010 at 9:44 AM
Hi George,
There are significant differences between all the power supplies.
August 30th, 2010 at 11:07 AM
Hi Jim – Thanks so much for all of the extremely beneficial information. I have a 20″ first generation iMac G5 with a failed logic board. I’ve gotten all the way through your instructions for removal, and would be able to lift it out except for one small wire in the lower left “nook” of the board. It emerges from the small hole in the lower metal frame, and attaches to the board almost directly above that underneath a small, raised chip. Can you please tell me how to get past this? I am by no means an expert (but don’t worry, I’ll be sending it out for repair – it’s just less expensive to send the board alone as opposed to the entire computer), but have found success in the “minor” things like removing parts. This is the only thing hindering me from getting the board out – please help! Thank you!
August 30th, 2010 at 1:00 PM
Hello Laura,
The wire/cable that you are referring to is probably for the wireless Airport card (which looks like a big rectangular chip) or the bluetooth. The cable is a miniature coax cable that typically goes underneath the main motherboard, and then heads up to the top, where the antennas are located.
As far as removing this cable from the onboard Airport card, I actually recommend removing the Airport card with the cable attached. The cable connector typically has a pull tab, but on the older iMacs, the plastic pull tab is old and brittle and breaks. Then, it becomes quite difficult to remove (first hand experience here) the miniature connector, and is easy to break the connector. If you leave the connector attached to the card, you can then remove the card and just lay it toward the side with the cable attached. You might need to remove the plastic support housing for the Airport card in order to swing everything out of the way.
Jim