Apple iMac G5 Power Supplies Capacitors
Apple iMac G5 Power Supply
Match your power supply model to one of the pictures below. Open it up to visually compare. Please note that I have the model numbers listed as A, B, C, DD, and EE not by the Apple p/n.
There are actually lots of different Apple power supply part numbers for iMac G5 computers including but not limited to: (661-3350, 661-3289, 614-0353, 614-0296, 614-0297, 661-3351 614-0923 614-0352 614-0294, AP14P46, 614-0398, 614-0326, 661-3625, 661-3289, AP13PC97, 614-0279, DPS-180SB, A 614-0334, 614-0366, 614-0326, 614-0398, 614-0353, 614-0328, 661-3627, 614-0327, 614-0325, 614-0365, 614-0329, 661-3290, Manufacturer Part Numbers: DPS-180QB-1A Rev 01, API4PC47, DPS-180QB ) along with a number of different manufacturers including: (ACBel API3PC96 – Celetronix Q45B – NPFC), and additional manufacturers’ part numbers than what is listed here.
Trust me on this, the best way to figure out what you need is to match the pictures below with your actual power supply when ordering a PSU capacitor kit.
Pictured above is an example of an iMac G5 power supply; yours might be different, and may not have the ambient light sensor shown above, which is attached to the bottom of some of the PSUs.
Below are pictures of the various iMac G5 power supplies, with the internal printed circuit board exposed, and after the metal covers have been removed. Read more about the do-it-yourself Apple iMac G5 power supply repairs and the Apple iMac G5 mother board repairs. Here is a link for measuring the PSU voltages if you have a voltmeter available.
Everything is in stock for the iMac G5 power supplies “A”, “B”, “C”, “DD”, and “EE” style PSUs. Purchase the iMac G5 power supplies cap kits from the “buy now” links. These Apple iMac Power Supply P/Ns are specified with my specific (easy to visually identify) G5 PSU “P/N” lettering system, not the official Apple Part Numbers.
The iMac G5 power supplies are listed below with a detailed picture of each PSU and the replacement cap values. Because of the large number of different iMac G5 Power Supplies, it is important to compare your iMac power supply visually, with the images below. There are differences on the capacitor values and quantities required for each of the PSUs listed below.
This article has been updated on 4/16/2010.
Power Supply “A”
Apple iMac G5 Power Supply 20 Inch “A” Style
11 Capacitors Listed
| Capacitor uf | Quantity Required | Approx. Original Size Measured & Voltage | Capacitors Replacement Upgrade |
| 3300uf | 1 | 10mm X 30mm 10 V | 12.5mm X 20mm 10 V |
| 2200uf | 1 | 10mm X 24mm 10 V | 10mm X 23mm 10 V |
| 1000uf | 4 | 8mm X 16mm 10 V | 8mm X 20mm 16 V |
| 1200uf | 1 | 10mm X 24mm 16 V | 10mm X 23mm 16 V |
| 1000uf | 1 | 10mm X 23mm 25 V | 10mm X 23mm 25 V |
| 330uf | 1 | 10mm X 20mm 35 V | 10mm X 12.5mm 35 V |
| 120uf | 1 | 8mm X 15mm 50 V | 8mm X 15mm 50 V |
| 22uf | 1 | 5mm X 7mm 35 V | 5mm X 7mm 50 V |
Capacitors are all high quality, switching power supply grade, low ESR, and long life ratings. The 3300uf cap is the longest life rating. Upgrade notice: Because of the difficulty in obtaining 10mm X 30mm 3300uf 10 Volts rated capacitors, I have upgraded this to the 12.5mm X 20mm 10 Volts rated capacitor. These 3300uf capacitors will fit into the space on the PSUs, but will stand above the circuit board slightly because of other components in the way at the base of the larger diameter capacitor. Note, the original 3300uf capacitors in my opinion were standing too high and shorting out on the top of the metal power supply cover as can be seen in the original trouble shooting section of the Apple iMac G5 Power Supply repair article. Note also, that some of the capacitors have been upgraded in voltage ratings. This was done as a matter of choice, in that a higher voltage is not necessarily required in the power supply, but where appropriate sizes were available in higher voltage ratings, I made the upgrade substitutions for extended performance and life expectancies.
Power Supply “B”
Apple iMac G5 Power Supply 17 Inch “B” Style
9 Capacitors Listed
| Capacitor uf | Quantity Required | Approx. Original Size Measured & Voltage | Capacitors Replacement Upgrade |
| 4700uf | 1 | 10mm X 30mm 6.3 V | 12.5mm X 25mm 10 V |
| 2200uf | 2 | 10mm X 24mm 10 V | 10mm X 23mm 10 V |
| 1000uf | 3 | 8mm X 16mm 6.3 V | 8mm X 20mm 16 V |
| 1200uf | 1 | 10mm X 24mm 16 V | 10mm X 23mm 16 V |
| 1000uf | 1 | 12.5mm X 20mm 35V | 12.5mm X 25mm 35 V |
| 330uf | 1 | 10mm X 20mm 35 V | 10mm X 12.5mm 35 V |
Capacitors are all high quality, switching power supply grade, low ESR, and long life ratings. The 4700uf is the longest life rated. Upgrade notice: Because of the difficulty in obtaining 10mm X 30mm 4700uf 6.3 Volts rated capacitors, I have upgraded the 4700uf to the 12.5mm X 25mm size 10 Volts rated capacitor. These 4700uf capacitors will fit into the space on the PSUs, but will stand above the circuit board slightly because of other components in the way at the base of the larger diameter capacitor. Note, the original 4700uf capacitors in my opinion were standing too high and shorting out on the top of the metal power supply cover as can be seen in the original trouble shooting section of the Apple iMac G5 Power Supply repair article I wrote.
Additionally, the 1000uF 35 Volts rated cap is now 12.5mm X 25mm in height instead of the 20mm height due to the difficulty in obtaining the old 12.5mm x 20mm. This caps have a significantly longer life rating than the originals, and will fit inside the case with no problems. The case actually has approximately 31mm height capabilities from the top of the printed circuit board to the inside of the metal cover. Note also, that some of the capacitors have been upgraded in voltage ratings. This was done as a matter of choice, in that a higher voltage is not necessarily required in the power supply, but where appropriate sizes were available in higher voltage ratings, I made the upgrade substitutions for extended performance and life expectancies.
I include a replacement chart showing the original value capacitor and the replacement value capacitor with your PSU cap order. Please refer to this chart when installing the new caps.
Power Supply “C”
Apple iMac G5 Power Supply 20 Inch “C” Style
11 Capacitors Listed
| Capacitor uf | Quantity Required | Approx. Original Size Measured & Voltage | Capacitors Replacement Upgrade |
| 3300uf | 1 | 10mm X 30mm 10 V | 12.5mm X 20mm 10 V |
| 2200uf | 3 | 10mm X 24mm 10 V | 10mm X 23mm 10 V |
| 1000uf | 2 | 8mm X 18mm 10 V | 8mm X 20mm 16 V |
| 1200uf | 1 | 10mm X 24mm 16 V | 10mm X 23mm 16 V |
| 1000uf | 1 | 12.5mm X 20mm 25 V | 12.5mm X 20mm 35 V |
| 330uf | 1 | 10mm X 20mm 35 V | 10mm X 12.5mm 35 V |
| 120uf | 1 | 8mm X 14mm 50 V | 8mm X 15mm 50 V |
| 10uf | 1 | 5mm X 7mm 50 V | 5mm X 7mm 50 V |
Capacitors are all high quality, switching power supply grade, low ESR, and long life ratings. The 3300uf is the longest life. Upgrade notice: Because of the difficulty in obtaining 10mm X 30mm 3300uf 10 Volts rated capacitors, I have upgraded this to the 12.5mm X 20mm 10 Volts rated capacitor. These 3300uf capacitors will fit into the space on the PSUs, but will stand above the circuit board slightly because of other components in the way at the base of the larger diameter capacitor. Note, the original 3300uf capacitors in my opinion were standing too high and shorting out on the top of the metal power supply cover as can be seen in the original trouble shooting section of the Apple iMac G5 Power Supply repair article.
The caps have a significantly longer life rating than the originals, and will fit inside the case with no problems. The case actually has approximately 31mm height capabilities from the top of the printed circuit board to the inside of the metal cover. Note also, that some of the capacitors have been upgraded in voltage ratings. This was done as a matter of choice, in that a higher voltage is not necessarily required in the power supply, but where appropriate sizes were available in higher voltage ratings, I made the upgrade substitutions for extended performance and life expectancies.
I include a replacement chart showing the original value capacitor and the replacement value capacitor with your PSU cap order. Please refer to this chart when installing the new caps.
Power Supply “DD”
Apple iMac G5 Power Supply “DD” Style
9 Total Capacitors Listed
| Capacitor uF | Quantity Required | Approx. Original Size Measured & Voltage | Capacitors Replacement Upgrade |
| 1200uF | 1 | 10mm X 24mm 16 V | 10mm X 23mm 16 V |
| 2200uF | 2 | 10mm X 24mm 10 V | 10mm X 23mm 10 V |
| 1000uF | 4 | 8mm X 20mm 10 V | 8mm X 20mm 16 V |
| 120uF | 1 | 8mm X 14mm 50 V | 8mm X 15mm 50 V |
| 1000uf | 1 | 12.5mm X 20mm 35 V | 12.5mm X 25mm 35 V |
Capacitors are all high quality, switching power supply grade, low ESR, and long life ratings. Additionally, the 1000uF 35 Volts rated cap is now 12.5mm X 25mm in height instead of the 20mm height, due to the difficulty in obtaining the old 12.5mm x 20mm. This caps have a significantly longer life rating than the originals, and will fit inside the case with no problems. The case actually has approximately 31mm height capabilities from the top of the printed circuit board to the inside of the metal cover. Upgrade notice: I have upgraded some of the capacitors to higher voltage ratings. This was done as a matter of choice, in that a higher voltage is not necessarily required in the power supply, but where appropriate sizes were available in higher voltage ratings, I made the upgrade substitutions for extended performance and life expectancies.
I include a replacement chart showing the original value capacitor and the replacement value capacitor with your PSU cap order. Please refer to this chart when installing the new caps.
Power Supply “EE”
Apple iMac G5 Power Supply “EE” Style
9 Total Capacitors Listed
| Capacitor uF | Quantity Required | Approx. Original Size Measured & Voltage | Capacitors Replacement Upgrade |
| 4700uf | 1 | 10mm X 30mm 6.3 V | 12.5mm X 25mm 6.3 V |
| 1200uF | 1 | 10mm X 23mm 16 V | 10mm X 23mm 16 V |
| 2200uF | 1 | 10mm X 23mm 6.3 V | 10mm X 23mm 10 V |
| 1000uF | 3 | 8mm X 16mm 6.3 V | ** 8mm X 20mm 16 V |
| 1000uf | 1 | 8mm X 19mm 10 V | ** 8mm X 20mm 16 V |
| 330uF | 1 | 10mm X 20mm 35 V | 10mm X 12.5mm 35 V |
| 22uf | 1 | 4.5mm X 12mm 50 V | 5mm X 7mm 50 V |
Capacitors are all high quality, switching power supply grade, low ESR, and long life ratings.
Upgrade notice: Because of the difficulty in obtaining 10mm X 30mm 4700uf 6.3 Volts rated capacitors, I have upgraded the 4700uf to the 12.5mm X 25mm size 6.3 Volts rated capacitor. These 4700uf capacitors will fit into the space on the PSUs, but will stand above the circuit board slightly because of other components in the way at the base of the larger diameter capacitor.
** Note the replacement value of the different voltage rating 1000uF caps (three 6.3 V and one 10 V) to a total of four 1000uF 16 volt caps. These 1000uF caps are slightly taller but will clear the top cover of the PSU.
Also note the original 4700uf capacitors, in my opinion, were standing too high and shorting out on the top of the metal power supply cover as can be seen in the original trouble shooting section of the Apple iMac G5 Power Supply repair article I wrote. Note also, that some of the capacitors have been upgraded in voltage ratings as I have said before. This was done as a matter of choice, in that a higher voltage is not necessarily required in the power supply, but where appropriate sizes were available in higher voltage ratings, I made the upgrade substitutions for extended performance and life expectancies.
I include a replacement chart showing the original value capacitor and the replacement value capacitor with your PSU cap order. Please refer to this chart when installing the new caps.
Order Your Proper iMac G5 Power Supply Capacitors Kit
Match up your power supply with the power supply above. Double check your capacitors against the capacitor lists above before placing your order at my eCommerce Out West Store. If you don’t see your power supply displayed here, I suggest you contact me first before placing the order. All orders and secure payments are processed with Secure Google Checkout and allowing you to use any major credit card of your choice for purchases.
When installing the new capacitors, the positive lead is the longer lead, and the negative lead is the shorter lead. The capacitors have a long wide line printed on the side, that matches up to the negative lead on the capacitor. This must be properly aligned with the proper holes on the power supply printed circuit board. Make sure the capacitors are installed properly. The circuit board is typically marked with a circle of where the capacitors mount, and the positive or negative terminal is also indicated on the PCB. *Warning: If you install the capacitors in backwards, they will become damaged or explode when the unit is turned on. Making this mistake, can also damage other components in your iMac. So, pay attention, and be careful. If you are not sure, take a picture of your own power supply before you start working on it, so you can reference the old ones with the new ones.
I suggest you replace one capacitor at a time, so you do not mix up which one goes where. Another warning. Don’t make this mistake of installing them in the wrong location, because the power supply will not function properly.
In addition, be aware that there are surface mount components on the bottom of the PCB. Be careful when soldering. A standard 60/40 or lead free rosin core solder may be used. Do not use acid core or acid flux with your solder. Damage to the circuit board will result if you use the wrong solder core type.
Please be aware that not all the power supplies can be repaired with just the capacitors being replaced. Sometimes a power supply blows something else besides the capacitors. Diodes, rectifiers, transistors, resistors, and surface mount components can go bad because of the iMac G5 capacitor failures. I will say this though, there is a high degree of success in replacing the caps on the Power Supply Units. The caps on the PSUs are actually easier to unsolder and solder on the printed circuit board as compared to the MOB caps.
September 29th, 2009 at 4:11 PM
Jim;
I am extremely impressed with your web site and the detailed iMac G5 info. As an electronic engineer I don't fear getting inside my computers but definately like to have a reference to guide me. Your description of the iMac G5 cap failure was exactly what happened to my wifes computer. I have just purchased the Cap Pkg from JWestSales and look forward to getting her back up and running. If you'd like some of my photos of this 'experience' I'd be happy to share them. As a long time Mac user I enjoy seeing sites dedicated to all things Mac, especially technically related. Keep up the good work.
SamB
October 4th, 2009 at 5:55 PM
The power supply of my iMac G5 is different,is a AC/DC 661-3780 614-0378… how can I test if is right? what voltages should come out?
Thanks for any help
October 5th, 2009 at 10:07 PM
The voltage pinout readings are located on the Apple iMac G5 PSU repair article. I have been looking for a PSU tester for Apple iMac computers for some time. I know that the PC side of things have many power supply testers that are relatively inexpensive and easy to use by simply plugging the PSU in, but I have not found one for the Apple Computer side of things. If anyone knows of a Apple iMac power supply tester, please send me an email.
Thanks
Jim
December 4th, 2009 at 3:39 PM
Great web page and instructions. I changed the capacitors on the motherboard of our 2008 G5 iMac, which had bulging caps and all the capacitors in the power supply (C-Style). Unfortunately the power supply still has an extreme overheating problem caused by the coil between capacitor 4 and 9 (in photo above). I'm at a loss now what else could be causing this coil to overheat so much. I'm planning to buy the international power supply (90V-240V) and hope that it will buffer any power fluctuations coming from our generator.
December 4th, 2009 at 8:54 PM
Hello Mikofox,
I suspect you have something else blown out other than the coil choke. Coils don't typically go bad. It is possible for the insulation to break down on the wire which could cause a short circuit, but it is more than likely that something else is driving the current through the coil beyond what the coil wiring can handle. I suspect that something like the voltage regulation and/or the power demand circuits are faulty.
Something else to be aware of, is the numerous surface mount components on the bottom of the the power supply boards. When proceeding to replacement of the capacitors, you should take extra care not to short out anything when unsoldering the old capacitors, or soldering in the new ones.
Another possibility is the motherboard capacitors can actually cause an excessive draw on the power supplies themselves. I have heard many stories of folks having to replace power supplies more than once, and not addressing the reason for the power supplies going out in the first place. Even Apple was not diagnosing the problems completely. Bad motherboard caps can cause the power supply to run at the extreme operating levels and the increased demand would cause the PSU to attempt to supply more current than the PSU can actually handle. This in turn could cause the PSU to run hot and subsequently go into an early failure mode.
June 22nd, 2010 at 11:11 AM
I have a powersupply to an iMac G5 that doesn’t work…. it is 220-240 v. (Sweden)
How do I know what part is broken so I can buy it and fix it?
June 22nd, 2010 at 12:31 PM
Hello Hans,
The best way to verify what is wrong with the powersupply is to open it up and visually look at the capacitors and other components. Refer to my Apple iMac G5 Powersupply Repair article I wrote for more detailed information. Also note that the incoming voltage 110V vs. 220V is not the factor for the output voltage capacitors that are blown. The incoming high voltage capacitors have not been an issue, unless of course the powersupply has taken a huge voltage surge through a lightning strike or something like that.
July 15th, 2010 at 7:07 AM
Hi Jim,
Thanks so much for this guide. I bought a kit from you and successfully repaired the PSU in my Dad’s 20″ 1.8Ghz iMac. I’ve recently picked up another one for free, this time what I believe is a 2nd gen. It’s a 17″ 1.5 Ghz w/ ALS. It had been setting for several months after being replaced, and when I brought it home and plugged it in, it tried to boot. It chimed three times, then booted fully and ran great for a day (just long enough to do a clean install. . .). At any rate, diagnostics tell me that it is the PSU, as LED 1 is “on” and LED 2 comes on momentarily when it tries to boot. I’d like to get a kit from you, but don’t see my PSU pictured. The part number on mine is 614-0327, which seems to be an alternate for 661-3290. If you could direct me to the correct kit, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
July 15th, 2010 at 9:38 AM
Hello Matthew,
The kits I have pictured above are the majority of the PSUs used in the iMac G5s. If you do not see your kit listed above, please email me a picture of your PSU with uF and voltage values of the caps listed, along with approximate mm sizes for diameter and height. Also keep in mind, that some of the kits are cross compatible with very similar other styles of PSUs that might not be listed here. The best thing to do is verify what value caps you have on yours and see if any of the kits above match to yours.
If you want to send a picture(s), feel free to click my name “James” on the side where it says email, and then you should be able to write an email directly to me using your normal email program.
July 18th, 2010 at 6:41 AM
Just wanted to say thanks for a great website!
Secondly just wanted to pass on a couple of tips I have discovered when desoldering both the logic board caps and the power supply caps.
Firstly flowing some fresh solder into the capacitor joints BEFORE desoldering helps a lot. Or using some Chip quik.
When removing the caps make sure the solder joint is soft before rocking / moving the capacitor as the body will separate from the legs leaving them still inside the board.
The use of a desoldering device like the Hakko 808, or Aoyue 474 will help but practice on a dead board as much as possible before using as each device will have it’s own tricks and quirks.
The tip size as already mentioned and iron wattage is key to getting the right heat to the joint to melt the solder.
When working inside the power supply it’s a good idea to discharge the larger caps with a 5 watt 2k resistor to avoid nasty shocks.
Desoldering stuck pins in the cap holes is one I had to face. As mentioned drilling is not a good idea as the multilayer vias can be damaged very easily even if you use a smaller bit size than the hole. If you damage the plating through the hole it is next to impossible to repair.
I found heating the hole from one side while pushing with a wooden tooth pick worked well as the tooth pick does not soak up the heat from the iron in the same way a sewing needle or similar item does.
I have one on at least one board that simply replacing the visually bad caps is not enough, often the others are weak or failing so it’s much better to bite the bullet and replace the lot, including the power supply components.